Shackology (ex-Crown & Anchor), Chiswick  

Until not too long ago a friendly Young's pub, the new owners have certainly cast the net as far as they could into bar, café and restaurant territory. For us, however, they don't convincingly capture the essence of any. Apart from the lovely grade two listed frontage (which is described as 'old' and 'tired') the décor is the epitome of suburban middle class; there's undertones of distressed kitchen farmhouse chic, captured through the eyes of someone wearing heavily rose-tinted spectacles. They're certainly making the effort to be convivial and relaxed, but - as is often the case when someone tries too hard - it comes across as cloying and contrived, not helped by a name which cries out boho pretension. The rationale was to cross the relaxed ambience of a pub with the homely feeling of being, well, at home. Trouble is - on our visit, at least - it felt like someone else's home. Sure, you can pop in at 9am for breakfast, read your paper during a risotto-based lunch, or enjoy a pleasant premium lager in the evening, but personally we're going to leave this one for the yummy mummies and thirty-something aspirants of W4.

reviewed:
27/09/2007

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