Volunteer, Marylebone  

Just a few doors down from 221b, you'd expect The Volunteer to be a pub in honour of Conan Doyle's detective. It's not (you have to go to Charing Cross for that). A few years back when we first reviewed this one, we had it pigeon holed as 'a seemingly nondescript pub' and though it still has an unassuming exterior, the inside has been altered to something rather more extravagant. All leather settles and beaded curtains, this pub is one of the growing number owned by the Mitchells and Butlers group that opts for a loungey décor and a drink selection heavy on the Belgian beers. The changes suggest a growing market for the high-powered brews of the Low Countries. But the more we visit places like the Volunteer, with their ever-so slightly contrived feel (M&B also own the All Bar One, O'Neill's and Scream chains), the more we're sensing some clever branding and marketing at work. We've not got a problem with the quality food and drink it's just the thought of a massive warehouse filled with beaded curtains and leather pouffes (à la the O'Neill's sheds ready to dispatch potato sacks and road signs to bars from Buenos Aires to Beijing) that gives us the fear. But if you can put such thoughts out of your mind you'll have a fine time at this one.

reviewed:
28/9/2007

pub features:(click on an icon to see an explanation)

private bar for hire

outdoor seating

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