Ye Olde London, St Paul's  

So the somewhat bizarre refurb of a traditional London pub almost in the shadow of St. Paul's into a gothic horror theme park is reversed in fairly short order. It's an all expenses spared makeover. The glass cases with odd things bubbling inside have been removed - as have the childishly entertaining moanin' and a groanin' sound effects in the loos - and the pointy tops on the heavy balustrades have been chopped off. But it leaves a slightly odd effect with the remaining woodwork just too dark and solid for what is presumably intended to be a modern traditional hostelry. The miscellaneous London prints dotted on every vertical surface do little to lift the overall flat feel. The fake bookcases downstairs remain but now a standard door marks the Gents' - there used to be hours of fun watching mildly sozzled, bladder-bursting tourists searching for the artfully hidden entrance. There is an excellent variety of beer on hand pumps - including Young's, London Pride, Everards and Adnams and an extensive food menu ranging from doughballs or nachos to fish and chips or steak and back again through pasta and baked potatoes. On this late afternoon visit the smaller upstairs bar was doing excellent business with family tourist groups (this being the school holidays) chomping away. OK it'll do and is a genuine alternative to the All Bar One next door. But don't for a moment think this is what old (or even olde) London is, or was ever, about.

reviewed:
31/3/2005

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