The Criterion, St. Andrews  

This is possibly the closest thing to a "real pub" in the somewhat surreal and surprising environment of the town formerly known as Kilrymont. After a period in (or perilously close to) the themed chain wilderness, we're pleased that the Crit has returned to its original, mid-19th century, name. There are a fair few real ales on hand pumps, a very fine range of malt whiskies for those seeking something a wee bit more immediately warming, and perhaps just a few too few seats - reflecting the fairly small, and narrow, size of the pub. Sports on TV seem to suit the traditionally masculine, pubby, feel of the place - it's the sort of pub that really cries out for the smoking ban to be reversed. The clientele is a healthy mixture of mainly middle-aged locals and academics and students who know how to behave in an old-fashioned pub (not quite "be seen and not heard", but at least, "be respectful and don't bray". Claims to be the "standard by which others are judged" - but that's probably overdoing it a bit.

reviewed:
24/02/2008

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real ales

TVs

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