The Imperial, Exeter  

The words Wetherspoon and quality don't exactly have a warm relationship, in fact they've been on the verge of divorce since this particularly garish chain dropped its first gastro pub on the table and said what d'you think of that? However, occasionally a good outlet sneaks off the conveyer belt and the Imperial, although tarnished by its master's faults, is one of the best pubs under the brand's banner. Unsurprisingly this is mainly because it doesn't resemble the Wetherspoons we've come to know at all. Housed within a big, spruce old building that feels like a National Trust property and surrounded by flowing green lawns, the Imperial has a comfortable, almost traditional feeling, thanks to dark wooden fittings, firm armchairs and soft carpets. Unfortunately it is littered with the usual brightly coloured food menus and all the standard offers are rammed down your gullet from a melee of ads, but it lacks the booming music, drunked-up clientele and general tackiness of most chain pubs. Even the tap selection is genuinely expansive, yet still cheap. An undoubted contender for best Wetherspoon pub in the country and a rather sadly, an example of what the chain can achieve, but doesn't appear to strive for elsewhere.

reviewed:
6/4/2007

pub features:(click on an icon to see an explanation)

real ale

large beer garden and conservatory

WiFi hotspot

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