Crown & Sugarloaf, Fleet Street  

A little history first... The Punch Tavern on Fleet Street was originally called The Crown & Sugarloaf but was renamed in honour of the founders of Punch magazine meeting there. Back in the 1990s The Punch was relaunched but due to the co-owners falling out the bar at the side was walled off. This Crown & Sugarloaf then, is that walled off bar - newly reopened in all its High Victorian grandeur. The Sam Smiths brewery - the Marmite of pub chains - is in charge here so you're either going to love the fact that only their brews are available or you're not. Even if you're not a fan, it's worthwhile sticking your head around the door to marvel at the cut glass, mosaic floor and period furniture. This one started off in 2004 as an early no-smoking pub, but this was subsequently lifted (we presume after it affected trade). Obviously it's now back in force. It's often less busy than other places nearby, but still busy enough for there to be no seats available - like most places in the area, though, it empties out considerably after about 9pm. Perhaps one day the original Crown & Sugarloaf will be reunited, but given how the Punch Tavern is doing its best to transform itself into an "informal gastropub" (translation: buffet), perhaps it's best to leave things alone for a while yet.

reviewed:
24/01/2008

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