Zenith Wine Bar (ex-As Good As It Gets), Angel  

Once an under-performing and ironically named Shepherd Neame pub, it eventually closed in 2006 after being perpetually bereft of custom. After a long period of abandonment, however, it's open again. It maybe a stones throw from popular Essex Road venues, but Zenith Wine Bar might as well be on the moon. The well maintained fixed assets are still present from its previous incarnation: a few couches are scattered about, while a pool and darts make up the entertainment. However, despite our visit coinciding with the Rugby final, when nearby pubs were filled to capacity, we found a humble half dozen geezerish residents from the nearby estate in situ here. The 'wine bar' bit of the name was rather overoptimistic, but the lager was pegged at 1997 prices - £1.50 for Castlemaine XXXX. At one point the owner went AWOL for 20 minutes, leading to a regular nominating himself as a makeshift relief manager and as we left another group of locals arrived to set up some live entertainment, presumably for their own benefit alone. Considering that affordable housing targets and the lure of filthy lucre mean even popular pubs can succumb to redevelopment, we suspect Zenith's days are numbered. It gets a one pint rating for its cheap prices and surreal atmosphere, but this isn't one for more sensitive Islington drinkers.

reviewed:
20/10/2007

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