Paternoster, St Paul's  

Settling in nicely as a replacement - but never a replica - of the genial old dump that was the Master Gunner, the Paternoster has found its feet as a modern, comfortable bar in keeping with the 21st century recreation of the whole square. Young's were right not to keep the name and not try to rival the excellent traditional pubs nearby. It's a businesslike place, serving businesslike people in a businesslike way. It's bigger than it looks from the outside and the raised central seating area helps break it into separate areas which include comfortable armchairs or spacious tables for dining - or lining up the glasses. The food is good quality and interesting, if a trifle pricey and the Young's beer - also confidently priced - is well kept and served. And the wine passes muster, too, although it would have to in this location. A rather odd design flaw puts the solid wooden door to and from the kitchens just along from the door down to the lavatories. One day, one of these charming waitresses is going to swing that lump of timber straight into a passing punter and then baptise them avec moules marinières. Suits and city workers in abundance but also a place for dignified old coves in blazers and medals to gather and quietly remember after attending memorials at St. Paul's. (Open weekends until 5:00pm - food until 4:00pm)

reviewed:
09/04/2008

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