Old Sergeant, Earlsfield  

We looked on this one as you would a distant relation: you might not stop by to visit every week, but you'd be sure to pop in once in a while, secure in the knowledge of a warm welcome. Alas, all that's changed now. We could be polite and say that the newly redesigned Old Sergeant offers something new on Garratt Lane; or honest, and say that here's another inert gastropub makeover. Everything from the menu (written a chalkboard, with Lamb Shank at the top of the list) to the furnishings and clientele can be guessed before entering. No distinguishing features; none of the charm of the old place. Let's face it, gastropubs like this are now as unoriginal as an O'Neill's. And just as annoying when they replace fine old boozers like the old Old Sergeant. Sad.

reviewed:
6/5/2004

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