The Evangelist, Fleet Street  

Scary old name, that. For a bar, anyway. Coming from Glasgow it has connotations of Bible John. But that's probably just me. So, the review. Set in a lovely little location on Blackfriar's Lane, the owners of The Evangelist have clearly done their homework. They've obviously read 'Gastropubs for Dummies', and got all the way to the end. This place has all the hallmarks of every other gastropub you've been in, or quickly walked past, and if you like that sort of thing, then come on down. This is probably your idea of heaven. No pun intended. Sporting an open-plan kitchen that seems to be as big as the bar itself, you can watch lots of people in very clean chef's outfits make your dinner for you. If that floats your boat, then brace yourself. It's got all the gastro staples: lamb shanks, goat's cheese, fancy mash, the whole shebang. And all at hefty prices. What I wasn't prepared for was how your fancy dinner will be served if you sit in the swanky leather booth. You get handed one of those beanbag lap trays that your mother serves you Sunday lunch on when she can't be bothered to get The Big Chairs out. It's surreal. Somehow it feels like an extra scene on the Nathan Barley DVD that was originally cut because no self-serving hipster would be seen dead with one of those. Trust me, they will. They've got lots of beers at exceptionally high prices, an extensive wine list and champagnes that come in at £125 a bottle. Not a surprise round these parts, where the local 'workers' wouldn't blink at that price if they've had a particularly good day at the office. Staff are brisk and organised, but they're smiling from the noses down. Or down their noses. I couldn't quite tell which. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. It's all a bit perfunctory and you get the feeling that they don't really care two hoots about you and your £4.80 Belgian beer. But perhaps that's part of the appeal. All in all, it's an unashamed gastropub. Nothing more, nothing less. Apart from the lap trays, that is.

reviewed:
25/11/2005

pub features:(click on an icon to see an explanation)

function room for hire

disabled facilities

ATM on premises

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